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    We sat in a cool cottage where local woods were being bent into shape and mother-of-pearl was carefully inlaid along the frets. Then we were off to the village of Gualaceo to visit makers of panama hats. Somewhat illogically, Ecuador is the world's main producer of the panama hat, and Gualaceo revolves around this cottage industry.

    At the church in the central plaza, Jesus himself is portrayed in a stained-glass window wearing a panama hat. When I mentioned to Eduardo that I owned a few old carved wooden santos, he veered off gambleroad a pebble-strewn path, and we soon found ourselves climbing through fields of flowers and corn to a tidy house on stilts, surrounded by slots, where an elderly man spent his days carving passionate approximations of the Crucifixion.

    He greeted Eduardo heartily, welcomed us slots considerable graciousness, and, after showing us around his house five scarcely furnished rooms, redolent of wood and flowers and gambleroadinvited us to see his work in progress. He was mixing paints in a little pink cup from a child's tea set, trying to come up with the properly expressive shade of red to show the blood seeping from Christ's wounds.

    He handled each tube of paint with gambleroad fanatical care that comes from scarcity and from the knowledge that one's profit margin is as thin as onion skin. The morning we left cuenca it was cool and foggy. We slots heading north, through Riobamba and on to the mountain settlement of Otavalo. But heading due north in Ecuador is no easier than finding your way out of that maze in The Shining.

    The "main road" seemed to disappear and reappear like the Cheshire cat's grin. As we ascended into layers of damp clouds, Indian women carrying loads of firewood or tending flocks slots sheep crossed suddenly in front of us. At times, the haze was so thick we could only hope that there was actual road ahead and that we were not driving off the edge of the highway.

    Luckily, there was little motor traffic—primarily hulking Coca-Cola delivery trucks en route to unmapped villages, villages where electricity to refrigerate the bottles had arrived only within the past few years. Throughout Ecuador, old haciendas have been turned into guesthouses, and we were booked into them at mile intervals between Cuenca and Otavalo.

    The remains of a settlement built by the Incas, it is still largely intact. We bought an admittance ticket from one of the site's two employees, and then a bent and toothless old man energetically waved us into a parking gambleroad, though ours was the spartan car in the lot. It was a great privilege to wander through in privacy.

    The silence was so profound, we felt as if we must have been breaking some kind of law by being there. We ambled down each pathway, examining the crumbling year-old walls of temples and storehouses, all erected with that Incan genius for mortarless stonework. In our solitude, it was easy to indulge fantasies of having discovered a lost city.

    From Ingapirca we drove to the village of Guamote. It was market spartan there; but since the action begins in early morning, and we didn't pull in until 4 p. Trucks were leaving the town's center, filled with brightly bedecked Indians carrying pigs slots sheep and huge quantities of food that they either had just bought gambleroad had failed to sell.

    We may not have been there for the market's peak hours, but there was still plenty of life in the streets. Near the abandoned train tracks at the village's southern end, we found ourselves in a crammed and festive labyrinth of booths, carts, and blankets, where hundreds of Ecuadoran farmers sold fruits and vegetables, pins and needles, pots and pans, mouthwash, lambs, piglets, potions, and hot meals of beef, carrots, and potatoes.

    Slots the Andes, the market is as integral to the Indian way of life as the New York Stock Exchange is to the life of corporate capitalism. And for people who spend most of their time working gambleroad patches of land, going to market is also a social occasion. It's a chance not only to buy and sell goods, but also to visit one another, to exchange stories.

    In places like this, it strikes me what a spartan oversimplification it is to think of Ecuador as merely poor. Our own post-industrial longing for community makes these markets seem enviable. As far as we could see, we were the only non-Indians in attendance; but our appearance seemed to excite neither animosity nor extreme curiosity.

    We bought a few items—oranges, a couple of embroidered belts—and tore ourselves away so that we wouldn't be on the Pan-American Highway past nightfall. And then: our first spartan. After hours of successfully negotiating potholes, I ran over a depression in the road that was as deep as the kiddie end spartan a swimming pool.

    The car shook as if we had been hit by artillery, and a moment later the shredded rubber of our blown tire was lapping like 10 rubber tongues against the road. There was no village nearby; we hadn't seen a public telephone since we left New York. My most fervent wish was for there to be a spare tire and a jack in the trunk—and there was.

    Had there not been, I would probably still be in Ecuador. I'm not the type to exaggerate the difficulties of changing a tire, but changing a tire at some 12, feet above sea level could one day be an Olympic event. The physiognomy of the indigenous Spartan people has evolved so that they can walk long distances at a sharp incline in the thin mountain air.

    1 thoughts on “Spartan slots gambleroad”

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